Traveler's Delight: June 2008

Central America Adventure Part 1

Antigua, Guatemala to Granada, Nicaragua

by Kevin O'Brien

I started this tour with a long weekend in Antigua, Guatemala. Having been there many times before made the short visit to this beautiful colonial city a little easier to take because there is so much to do and see! I met my passengers in the morning for a walking tour of the city. Built in the mid 1500’s and once the capital of Central America before being partially destroyed by earthquakes, this historic and colorful city has some fine examples of Spanish architecture, beautiful parks and squares and is surrounded by volcanoes!

After lunch, we headed to Volcan Picaya, an active volcano where it is possible to see (and get pretty close to) lava! We were back in the city to freshen up before dinner. There are so many great restaurants to choose from, it’s a good thing we had 3 nights. After dinner we went to a see some live music, Buena Vista de Corazon, with some of the original members of the famous Buena Vista Social Club from Cuba.

We spent the next day sightseeing in the mountains on our way to Chichicastenango. Home to the largest market in Central America and pre-Christian ceremonies, this small colorful village high in the mountains is worth a visit. We spent the afternoon at Lake Atitlan but could have made it a week! Surrounded by volcanoes with small villages dotting the shore and deep blue water makes this one of the most beautiful lakes in the world.

Copan Ruins by Gustavo Bueso Padgett

There is so much to do in Guatemala, but that is for another tour. Our next stop was Copan, Honduras, to see the well known Mayan ruins of the same name. These ruins are small in comparison to the great Mayan cities of Tikal or Chitzen Itza but still significant, dating back to 1200 BC. A guided tour of the ruins is a must and the Great Plaza with its stelae portraying Copan’s rulers, the Ball Court, and one of a kind Hieroglyphic Stairway make for a great introduction to the Mayan world. In the afternoon, I take my group up to Macaw Mountain to see different birds that make this region home and to go for a refreshing dip in a small river. Dinner near the small cobblestoned main square completes our perfect day in Copan.

No visit to Honduras is complete without a visit to the Bay Islands, actually that’s all most people know about the country! Well know for scuba diving, these islands are the southern part of the 2ond largest barrier reef in the world. Not a diver? Try snorkeling, sailing, even a submarine tour or just relax on the beach.

Once back on the main land we drive through the original ‘Banana Republic’ backed by Pico Bonito National Park – home to Honduras’s tallest mountain, and along the famed ‘Mosquito Coast’ with a stop in the Lancetilla Botanical Garden, one of the largest in the world, featuring fruit trees from every continent and a crystal clear swimming hole. We are on our way to Lago de Yajoa!

Back in the mountains, this lake is bookended by 2 cloud forest parks, stocked with fish, and home to over 375 species of birds. Nearby, the Pulhapanzak waterfall makes a great place to stop for lunch, a swim, or canopy tour adventure before we head to Danli, a small town near the border with Nicaragua.

"Angel of Marble Pantheon" by Alberto Ramirez

Once in Nicaragua, we head to Leon, once the nation’s capital with fine colonial buildings and churches, including the largest cathedral in Central America. We spend the day in the city but head to the nearly deserted coast for sunset, dinner and the night. Early in the morning we can visit Isla Juan Venado, a nature reserve and home to nesting turtles, mangroves, birds and reptiles.

That afternoon we drive right up to the crater of the active Masaya Volcano and spend an hour walking the trails before lunch in Masaya. After lunch we have some time for shopping in the local and artesanias markets before we go to one of my favorite places in Central America, Laguna de Apoyo! This crystal clear lake formed in the crater of a volcano and is the deepest in Nicaragua.

Isla Ometepe is our next stop. It is one of the largest fresh water islands in the world, located in Lake Nicaragua (Latin America’s 3rd largest lake). The island is formed by 2 volcanoes; the active Volcan Concepcion (1610 meters) and dormant Volcan Maderas (1394 meters). Activities here include hiking, horseback riding, an island history tour and a visit to the Ojo de Auga, a fresh water spring.

Our last night is in Granada, another wonderful city and the beginning of the 2ond part of my tour! For more information go to http://www.barefootpanama.com/ or email me at Kevin@barefootpanama.com

Photography by Kevin O'Brien - Tour Guide

A Traveler's Delight

Lisbon Landscape and Tejo River by Francisco Ramos

Lisbon is a fascinating city of old-fashioned and funky art, architecture and traditions. It's one of Europe's most enjoyable capitals with its relaxed atmosphere, cultural diversity, reasonable prices and charming architecture. Lisbon is set on seven low hills next to the Tejo (Tagus) river. The city's atmosphere is rich with wonderful old buildings, Europe's longest suspension bridge, and fascinating museums and monuments. Despite the city's muscle-aching hills, Lisbon is compact enough to explore on foot. If your legs get tired, Lisbon has very convenient, bus, tram and subway lines as well as funiculars to take you up the steeper hills. Taxis abound, and are perhaps the most reasonably priced in Europe.

Pavilhao Atlantic by Palo Perez

Mosaic Lisbon Street by Richard Gurgel

The capital of Portugal is currently in the middle of a building boom which began after it was chosen as the host city for Expo 98. Metro lines have been extended, mosaic sidewalks have been re-paved and 18th century facades have been restored. One of the most urgent works is the saving and restoration of the "Alfama", the old town.

Rui Lousao

A good way to orient yourself and enjoy a panoramic view is to climb one of the seven hills - Penha de Franca, Senhora do Monte, Graca, Sao Jorge, Sao Pedro Alcantara, Santa Catarina, Estrela. Sao Jorge is topped by a famous castle, Castelo de Sao Jorge, and has the most spectacular picturesque view - especially as the sun sets over the Tagus river. Generally speaking, you can spend an unlimited time discovering and re-discovering this charming city; however if you are on a tight schedule, don't miss exploring the Alfama District, Bairro Alto, and Belem. Lisbon is a wonderful place to explore, any time of the year.

Cabo Da Roka by Simon Shokry

Palácio de sintra by Bernnard Mukarubibi

The city moves to pulsing new rhythms, as African music clubs are all the rage. Contrasting to this modern diversity, Portuguese fado songs continue to be heard, the soulful music (which originated here) is still hitting notes of passionate melancholy.